
For the last couple of years I've had the honor of being invited to Fred Brander's party in Santa Barbara where he pours as many of the Wine Spectator's Top-100 Wines as he can locate. This usually occurs a couple of weeks after the list is released; this year's early publication of the list gave him a little more time to round up some wines. Fred had about 60 wines on hand this year, enough to give a pretty good overview of what's capturing the interest of American consumers (or WS critics) these days.
The wines were laid out in numerical order, as as the table holding the upper end of the spectrum was rather crowded with attendees (probably about 100 people this year), I began at the bottom of the list and worked my way upward through the hierarchy.
I'm not sure whether it's just that I'm pretty jaded and that it takes a lot more to picque my interest these days, but there were a lot of wines I felt were well made and worthy of notice but there's no way in hell that I'd spend my hard-earned money to obtain them for my cellar. "Bigger is better" might work in the porn industry but I don't believe that it's got any place in the wine world. There were wines with lots of fruit and no acidity and wines that had a lot of upfront fruit and dropped off the edge of the earth on the back end. So it goes in the world of picking "greatest hits" for a wine magazine that serves as the one-stop "something for everything" journal of the wine firmament.
There were wines that I'd be proud to add to the cellar. The 2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé was sleek and beautiful, as appropriate on this rainy day as it would be on a summer afternoon in Provence. Strawberry and dry cherry fruit predominated but the wine is beautifully balanced and has a structure that will enable it to be really interesting to drink in another decade (or tomorrow if you're short of patience).
The 2009 Chateau des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent from Louis Jadot was definitely tops in the Miss Congeniality category. Soft and approachable, this poster child for the 2009 Beaujolais vintage was immediately approachable yet has the requisite balance to allow it to evolve for awhile. You either like Beaujolais or you don't, and I happen to love the stuff, so the Spectator is preaching to the choir when they add a wine such as this to the Top 100 list.
Pichot's 2008 Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette was subtle (as Vouvrays are wont to be) yet persistent on the finish, with a lovely texture and a flavor that hinted at off-dry yet never ventured over onto the sweet side of the occasion. This wine is not the bargain it used to be ($15 now vs. the $7 I paid for the 2002) but in the real world, the wine is a steal for a bottle that will work well with a lot of different cuisines and that will continue to evolve in the cellar for a number of years. This begs the question of whether it's worth the cost to store an inexpensive bottle for long periods of time, but I think it's worthwhile in a case such as this. And case might be the operative word, as this is the sort of wine where it's nice to have plenty of it around.

If the Moulin-à`Vent was Miss Congeniality, then the 2008 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Federspiel by Weingut Emmerich Knoll won the talent competition. Such masterful winemaking here, yet the technique didn't get in the way of the wine as it did in so many of the other bottles at this tasting. This is a seamless wine that was a pleasure to drink, offering as much intellectual stimulation and complexity as you'd care to draw out of it yet just being fun to drink if you wanted nothing more than to whet your whistle and wash the white asparagus or schnitzel down the ol' pie-hole. It was broad on the palate, with requisite Wachau minerality and hints of white pepper and a bit of smoke.
They selected the 2005 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva at position #52 and it was quite enjoyable, very much on the "traditional" side of the Rioja equation. Balanced and amiable, it's the sort of wine I'd like to have in the cellar for those times I don't want to be blown away by a wine but still want something good to drink. The 2006 Bodegas LAN Rioja Crianza fits the same slot (albeit at #42), although I preferred the Beronia to the LAN, all things considered (I'd like a crianza to taste a little fresher to make up for the lack of complexity in a Reserva). But for under $20 per bottle, it's not a big deal. Non-blockbuster winemaking seems to have a place on the Wine Spectator list, and that's a good thing.
The most intriguing red wine of the day for me was the 2007 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel. Early-on at the tasting the wine was good but lacked complexity. About an hour after opening the wine had turned into a roaring homage to the Southern Rhône, with flavor and aromatic sensations pinging back and forth in an organized yet chaotic manner as if the wine were a symphony composed by Charles Ives. Brett was part of this glorious cacaphony as were Provençal herbs and even a few Asian spices. Paso Robles lies in the new world so obeisance need not be paid to Chateauneuf-du-Pape with the level of attention thought proper in the past and this wine is all the better for it. I've been around Tablas Creeks wines since the first vintages (1987, IIRC) and this is by far my favorite wine they've made. Jason Haas and Neil Collins are on their game with this wine; I hope that vintage conditions in the future enable them to continue in this vein for a long time. I would also recommend that you check out the Tablas Creek blog. It is among the best-written, most often-updated, and just generally worthwhile-to-read wine blogs on the net.
Sticking to the Southern Rhône meme, the 2009 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc was an ideal choice to reside in the Top-10 of this list. Stone fruit sensory stimuli were in abundance, with a broad, silky texture and persistance on the finish. Although leaning toward the zaftig nature of this producer's red wines (at least since the 2003 vintage), this wine kept its over-the-top proclivities in check, resulting in a transplendent example of the heights that whites from the Southern Rhône can achieve.
I probably tasted 40 of the wines on the table and enjoyed most of them. When I began looking these wines up when I returned home, it became apparent that my sweet spot in the Wine Spectator rating world is right around 90 points. Not that I'm not happy to drink wines at the top, but most of those suffered from too much intrusive winemaking. Been there, done that, and I'm happy to know that if I'm not exactly a cheap drunk, at least I'm a more discerning one after a lot of years tasting a lot of wines and figuring out what makes me happy. Kudos for Fred Brander and his crew for putting on one of the year's most anticipated (yet low-key) tastings.